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March 26, 2018

Test Results :: Dark Periwinkle

Effetre Dark Periwinkle (EFF222) is a medium indigo opaque colour that is very soft.

Reducing Dark Periwinkle doesn't alter its colour.

Like it's lighter cousin Periwinkle, Dark Periwinkle can change to a greenish version of itself when silver is added to its surface. Reducing and encasing silver leaf on top of Dark Periwinkle was unexpectedly nice. Because the visible Dark periwinkle between the lacy silver bits fumes a deeper green-blue colour but doesn't do it evenly, there's a lot of pretty variation in the colour.

This colour is an average base for silver glass. My reducing silver glass looks pretty on top of its blueness, with the purplishness of the Dark Periwinkle countering the greenishness of the silver glass very nicely. In the rightmost bead, I got a decent starting strike to my TerraNova2 frit, and I like the contrast of its deep burgundy with the Dark Periwinkle. With a little more work, the colours here probably could have been beautiful :)

Dark Periwinkle is not a very reactive colour. Here, you can see it separating on tp of Copper Green. In the rightmost bead, it rises up in gentle halos around Tuxedo and Copper Green stringer dots and lines. Ivory and Peace separate slightly on top of it.

Here are some beads made with Dark Periwinkle:

March 12, 2018

Test Results :: Intense Blue

Effetre Intense Blue is a gorgeous dark blue transparent. It has a lot of punch when it is used in thick layers, but thins out colour-wise considerably when used thinly on top of other colours. That said, it is a lot bluer on top of white than most of the other transparent 104 blues because it starts out so much darker.

Here you can see how beautifully dark and rich this blue is. It doesn't change when you reduce it.

Intense Blue and Silver don't have much of a reaction. In the bead on the left, you can see that silver leaf formed a crust on top of Intense Blue, and then you can see in the bead on the right that when that 'crust' is reduced and encased, it mellows out into a greyish blue coating.

Neither of these beads show much of interest with regard to silver glass, although Intense Blue makes a pretty, inoffensive base colour for reducing silver glass frit.

Intense Blue lightens up considerably when you use it in thin layers over other colours, but still maintains its essential blueness. You really need a blue this intense if you are going to try to use it over white to make flower petals. But if you're making blue flowers, you'll probably want to use a light blue or lavender base glass with this colour to get deeper colours.

Intense Blue is not very reactive, and apart from some separation in Copper Green when it is used over top of this colour (and even fainter separation in Opal Yellow and Ivory), there is not much to report here.

I didn't make much with this colour yet, but here's a simple little earring pair.

February 26, 2018

Test Results :: Kryolith White

Lauscha Kryolith White (LAU380) is a stiff, white, opaque glass. I wanted to like this colour, because due to some online marketing of the glass on LE, I had in my head that it would have awesome opacity and would be pretty with silver. It turns out that both of these things are true, which is nice, but there is an absolute vacuum online about this colour's incompatibility. That seems like an important omission.

It doesn't matter that this colour is nice with silver or that it is great with silver glass and beautifully inert when used with other colours. It doesn't matter because anything you make with this White and any other glass colour will probably break within a week of you making it. And this problem doesn't just occur when you encase it. I made some tricolour dot beads with flowers and stripes and various other designs with this colour, Effetre Periwinkle, and CiM Lapis. With my magnifier, I can see tiny little incompatibility cracks wherever this colour meets something else. Interestingly enough, I can't see the cracks when I photograph the beads and view the full-resolution image at 100% zoom, so there's no point in posting them here.

Beads where I used this colour in tiny amounts on the surface of another colour and didn't layer anything on top of it have survived for a couple of months, but I don't know how to feel optimistic about their long-term chances given the magnitude of the problems I observed.

Like with Reichenbach White, this made me sad and disinclined to put a lot of effort into a write-up. But, I made these test beads, so you might as well see them.

Kryolith White does not change colour when you reduce it.

Kryolith White doesn't so much fume yellow with silver as it does turn the silver yellowish on top of it. There's a little yellowing of the base glass, but to a much lesser degree than with Peace, White, or Reichenbach White.

Here, you can see that Kryolith White makes a pretty base for silver glass, but I won't try this again because of the compatibility problem.

Copper Green, Opal Yellow, and Ivory all separate on top of Kryolith White. In spite of it being a stiff colour, on top of Opal Yellow and Ivory, Kryolith White spreads out quite a lot.

There's not much else to say about this. Kryolith White is a tease. It has behaviour and properties that we want and need in a white glass, but then also has the behaviour we can't tolerate in any glass colour that we're going to use in designs that contain more than one colour. I will probably stick to using the least expensive, most reliable opaque white glasses in my work: Effetre White and CiM Peace.

February 12, 2018

Test Results :: Lime Green

Reichenbach Lime Green (RL4017) is a medium green transparent glass that is quite pale in thin layers, but darkens up significantly when used in solid, self-coloured beads. It darkens a little when worked, so you can expect any beads you make with this colour to end up somewhat darker than the rod colour might lead you to believe.

In this picture, Lime Green is in the middle. On its left is Effetre Olive Transparent, and on it's right is Effetre Light Grass Green. It's the darkest of the three, and builds saturation quickly as you build up a bead.

Here, you can see that the rightmost bead, which I reduced, looks no different from the left hand bead, which I did not.

Silver crusts up on top of Lime Green and develops some bluish haze. When the silver is reduced and encased, some of that blue haze can be captured under the clear layer. In the rightmost bead, I tried encasing some silver foil with Lime Green. I do this to see if the silver will turn yellow. It didn't :)

Lime Green is an interesting base for Silver Glass. Because it is a little stiffer than the Double Helix and TAG colours in my reducing frit blend, my frit spread out on it which was nice. I got a nice starting strike from my TerraNova2 frit on top of this colour, but nothing extraordinary.

I saw some very slight separation in Ivory, Copper Green, and Peace on top of this colour, but not enough that I am even tagging those reactions to Lime Green for future reference. I didn't get many unusual reactions when I used Lime Green on top of other glasses, either, although when I used it on top of Copper Green, I did notice that the edges of the dots and stringer lines looked much brighter turquoise than can be seen elsewhere on the bead.

Here's a goddess bead made with Lime Green and some green frit. I'm not very pleased with how this came out, but am not too proud to show it anyway. If nothing else, it demonstrates how this colour is actually quite saturated and looks very dark when melted into a solid mass.

These beads also contain some Lime Green.

January 22, 2018

Test Results :: White (Ornela)

Ornela Chalk White (PO0300) is a very soft white opaque glass with good opacity. It is less reactive than other whites, and a little more expensive than Effetre White and CiM Peace. Ornela is also known as 'Czech' glass, as it is manufactured in Czechoslovakia.

This is the first Preciosa Ornela glass colour that I've ever used. I had been hesitant to try Ornela because of all of the noise out there about its compatibility, and I guess I am still feeling cautious since this is only one colour, but I don't see anything to be nervous about in this one. Months after having made these beads, they're still all without flaw.

If you are in the market for some Ornela colours and you're in North America, Laura Walters imports it and sells it on her website, here:

Chalk White doesn't change colour when you reduce it.

Unlike other white glasses, Chalk White doesn't turn yellow with the addition of silver.

With my reducing silver glass frit, a bit of faint yellow fume appeared, but nothing very substantial. My striking silver glass didn't do much on top of Chalk White.

And this picture shows how inert this colour really is. There is a little bit of separation in it on top of Copper Green and Tuxedo, but even that reaction isn't very strong.

I didn't make any other beads with Chalk White, but I am definitely going to keep it in mind in the future. It will be useful that there is a White that is less reactive.

January 15, 2018

Test Results :: White (Reichenbach)

Reichenbach White (RL1200) is an opaque white glass that loses its opacity when used in thin layers. It's also a colour with compatibility challenges, because I did not manage in any of my testing to find a single colour that it does not crack with. The batch of it that I had is not compatible with Effetre Black, CiM Tuxedo, Double Helix Zephyr, or any of the other colours I've tried it with in these test beads. It's not very interesting reaction-wise apart from some pretty fuming with silver, and it's easily four times the price of Effetre White. You can make up your own mind, but I'll pass on more.

I did make and photograph these test beads, though, so I may as well show them to you.

Reducing this colour does not change it.

Like Effetre White and CiM Peace, Reichenbach White fumes a pretty colour of yellow when used with silver.

It's not evident in the picture, but the bead on the right, where I encased the silvered Reichenbach White, cracked. It cracked along the mandrel line, so at first I thought maybe it was a viscosity problem between the white and the clear layer. But then, a couple of weeks after I made these beads (and after my glass review article had been submitted to Glass Bead Evolution), I noticed that every single bead I made with this White and at least one other colour had cracked. To be fair, I didn't try it with very many colours -- just the ones seen here plus some beads I made with CiM Tuxedo and Effetre Black -- but every single one of the beads where Reichenbach White was not all by itself had tiny hair-thin cracks surrounding the other colour details.

The bead where I used silver with this colour but did not encase it was a survivor and is actually sort of attractive, so if you have any of this colour lying around and want to use it up, single-coloured beads with silver seems like a good, safe way to do it.

Silver glass reduced on this colour fumes the White a soft yellow. My TerraNova2 frit didn't do much on top of it. Neither of these test results matter much in light of the compatibility issues.

Reichenbach White is not very reactive, and there is really nothing to say about it here from that perspective, however you can see how much it loses its opacity in thin layers when you look at how it behaved over Tuxedo.

January 11, 2018

Test Results :: Middle Blue

Reichenbach Middle Blue (RL3018) is a pretty light aqua. The rods I had seemed to be seeded with itty bitty bubbles, which I found a little odd. There were too many, too consistently through the rods for it to be an accident (or maybe not?) and the result is sort of pretty, unless what you want is a smooth, bubble-free transparent aqua.

This colour, or at least this batch of this colour, was very stiff -- much stiffer than the other transparents I've tried from this line. Possibly because of this difference in viscosity, I had some dramatic incompatibility issues with this colour, which you'll see as we go through the tests.

Middle Blue darkens a little if you reduce it. I was trying to get it to turn red, but it refused to do that.

The left half of this bead was Effetre Light Aqua, and the right half was Reichenbach Middle Blue. You can see a compatibility crack around the middle of this bead where the two colours meet.

Middle blue is not terribly reactive with silver, although I got some yellow fuming in the middle bead which may be as much due to the Clear as the Middle Blue.

The middle bead is a core of Middle Blue, rolled in silver, and encased with Effetre Clear after reducing the silver. I'm not sure you can see all of the cracks in the bead from the picture above, so I included a photo of the bead in the two pieces that it divided itself into, below.

This kind of cracking can only be from incompatibility, so this batch of Middle Blue is clearly not a great fit for using with other 104 CoE colours unless you can find some with a comparably stiff viscosity. If you do plan use this colour with other glasses, make sure you do some pre-production testing first.

Middle Blue was not particularly interesting with either my reduction frit blend or my TerraNova2 frit.

Middle Blue is not a very reactive colour, but I did get some dark line reaction with Ivory. The most interesting thing about this reaction was that it happened when I used the Middle Blue on top of the Ivory, but not when I used the Ivory on top of the Middle Blue. I think this is because the reaction is fairly gentle and happens where the two colours meet, but isn't strong enough to wrap the edges. It's only visible through the Middle Blue because it is transparent.

I didn't make any surviving beads with this colour. I tried a goddess with some frit, but it is cracked all through. here's a photo of it anyway.